What I plan to do is cut out standard plastic floor tiles to the correct size and pop the units on it. Simple.

Is there any FOG related games going off at Tripples in Sheffield in April?

Hello. Just getting back into FOG after a little hiatus. I am using 6mm figures and have decided to base them on plastic floor tiles. These are great but orginially I cut them with plain old scissors and now they are less than perfect base sides which as I'm sure we all know, affect how the battle g...

A lot of players who paint twentieth century figures/vehicles can give good hints on how to age/weather/dirty up figures I agree. My first love is WWII, and I use techniques on my 20mm that work well. My problem was that in 6mm, a small blob of wash that settles in the wrong place will cover the en...

Really nice Strategos! I especially like the Afrika Corps

Ok, I will give this a go

:roll: Doh, forgot to add, that you are correct - you cannot move to contact unless joining as an overlap (or side base touches side base of the enemy). To combat, you must shoot or charge. There's another query that may come up in that because all units are moved individually, is it possible for a ...

I'm no FOG expert but I think the rule means IF you advance, then you can only use advance, but the battle groups in battle line would still need to test to charge and I would say they can still opt to charge in the impact phase if they wish. Just because there in a line together doesn't alter the f...

Well argued! I take the point - I began trying to think of battlefields with prominent terain in the midst of the battles, but there isn't any to my knowledge so I well and truly capitulate the point I guess it is other systems colouring my perception of what is right and wrong.

Remember that after placing a piece of terrain your opponent can roll to modify the placement and depending on the score can move it 6 or 12 inches. This often helps to shift terrain towards the centre. But that's what rolls I mean! Some of the initial placement rolls put the terrain further into t...

Hi everyone I'm sure there's more than me out there that thinks this, but I hate bright colours on my miniatures. I like the armies I create to be more realistic and have mud etc. on them. I am currently doing Carthaginians and I want to tone down all those bloody Celtic shields and clothes by makin...

Has anyone ever had this? :- Me and my friends are still relatively new to FOG, and are working through the rules using the Carthaginians and Romans. When it comes to placing terrain, a lot of rolls end up with the terrain on the table edges with massive open spaces in just about the entire table. I...

Well, you just stated my suggestions I would try the inking again but, basecoat them white first, and then put them on a black background and see if that works?

If you like snow battles, why don't you do Alexander Nevsky?

For my numidians, I did under coat Black, base coat GW Graveyard Earth, and then highlighted by gradually adding white to the mix and drybrushing it on.

I'm biased, but I would get any 6mm army. The colours are easily applied and there's no worrying about special paint effects such as inking or drybrushing because a standard paint job is enough. Oh, stay away from 6mm Persians though. Painting the embroidery on their clothes will really mess up your...

I See! So, the best way to use them is in a column as part of a battle line. I had been using them to the rear of the Hastati/Princeps as a kind of supportive group (as it suggests in Rise of Rome). Will try the way you suggested.

I don't mind rules if I understand why they are there.

Bear with me because I haven't checked the "legal" allocations for some battlegroups in the Companion list books. Nevertheless, after spending a bit of time with the starter armies from FOG, I am begining to wonder why anyone in their right minds would EVER take a two base battle group. Wh...

Well, I'm sure many companies do it. Miniature wargames do a terrain starter set, but it's all card cutouts (a bit like dungeon tiles). This is ok to begin with and practical, but not very attractive. S&A miniatures also do a pack, but they are quite pricey were talking £80-£120. Heres their web...

I would also add something. I don't know if you have a copy of the rules or not but: when you get them and read them through for the first time, it will be no doubt very daunting! All I would say is keep reading them because although the text is VERY technical and almost reads like a science textboo...

Doh, doh and doh again!

Of course I didn't see that Perhaps that makes it much better!