Has anyone tried Armypainter Quickshade?

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spike
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Re: quick shade

Post by spike »

flameberge wrote:
rickf wrote:I got in trouble for saying this at Warlords stand at Partizan, but all quick shade really is, wait for it, its furniture varnish!!. Go to B+Q, Focus etc and theres tins of the stuff, I pay about £4 a tin and it ranges from clear (matt, satin or gloss) to very dark (good for brown horses) medium pine is a good average one. The fantasists at Games workshop have just brought out a very good range of washes, I trialled them last night with some Celts and they are good.
Rick
This wouldn't surprise me. I have often wondered if wood stain would work but have never actually tried it.
Just a thought are they (army painter and stain varnish) the same viscosity?

Spike
philbagnall
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Re: quick shade

Post by philbagnall »

spike wrote:Just a thought are they (army painter and stain varnish) the same viscosity?

Spike
From my understanding quickshade is similar to,or repackaging of, a range of woodstains marketed as Minwax in the USA and which aren't available in the UK. It's certainly more gloopy/viscous than the stain varnishes I've seen out of B&Q (ronseal, own brand etc) - which may be why it tends to sit on the figure rather than running off more quickly. That said, don't see why ronseal shouldnt do a serviceable stand-in job if tried (though I havent!)

Phil
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Post by nikgaukroger »

I know of wargamers who use Ronseal quite happily.
Nik Gaukroger

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flameberge
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Re: quick shade

Post by flameberge »

rickf wrote:I got in trouble for saying this at Warlords stand at Partizan, but all quick shade really is, wait for it, its furniture varnish!!. Go to B+Q, Focus etc and theres tins of the stuff, I pay about £4 a tin and it ranges from clear (matt, satin or gloss) to very dark (good for brown horses) medium pine is a good average one. The fantasists at Games workshop have just brought out a very good range of washes, I trialled them last night with some Celts and they are good.
Rick
Here I was asking about how well quickshade worked and I now I find I can go to my hardware store, buy some wood stain for 1/4 the cost, and get the same result. I love this forum.
daleivan
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Re: quick shade

Post by daleivan »

flameberge wrote:
rickf wrote:I got in trouble for saying this at Warlords stand at Partizan, but all quick shade really is, wait for it, its furniture varnish!!. Go to B+Q, Focus etc and theres tins of the stuff, I pay about £4 a tin and it ranges from clear (matt, satin or gloss) to very dark (good for brown horses) medium pine is a good average one. The fantasists at Games workshop have just brought out a very good range of washes, I trialled them last night with some Celts and they are good.
Rick
Here I was asking about how well quickshade worked and I now I find I can go to my hardware store, buy some wood stain for 1/4 the cost, and get the same result. I love this forum.
The wood stain equivalent does sound like a great alternative. I'll have to check out my local Ace hardware store here in the States. Thanks!

Dale
Svejk1914
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Re: quick shade

Post by Svejk1914 »

daleivan wrote:
flameberge wrote:
rickf wrote:I got in trouble for saying this at Warlords stand at Partizan, but all quick shade really is, wait for it, its furniture varnish!!. Go to B+Q, Focus etc and theres tins of the stuff, I pay about £4 a tin and it ranges from clear (matt, satin or gloss) to very dark (good for brown horses) medium pine is a good average one. The fantasists at Games workshop have just brought out a very good range of washes, I trialled them last night with some Celts and they are good.
Rick
Here I was asking about how well quickshade worked and I now I find I can go to my hardware store, buy some wood stain for 1/4 the cost, and get the same result. I love this forum.
The wood stain equivalent does sound like a great alternative. I'll have to check out my local Ace hardware store here in the States. Thanks!

Dale
ACE is indeed the place in this instance Dale. The big box stores don't carry the right shade of Minwax but ACE does.
You want Minwax Polyshades "Stain and Polyurethane in 1 Step". Tudor Satin 360 is the shade for most purposes. You can get one of the darker walnuts for a more brown tone, the Tudor is nearly black.
This stuff has been used for years as the "Magic Dip" here in the States, was wondering whether or not this ArmyPainter stuff was just repackaged woodstain.

These aren't ancients, but they are an example of the Minwax Tudor at work:
Image
Image
daleivan
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Re: quick shade

Post by daleivan »

I really like the results you show--very eye catching!

Thanks for the recommendation and the specific type of Minwax, too.

Dale
Last edited by daleivan on Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
flameberge
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Post by flameberge »

I had some "red oak" minwax in my garage so I thought I'd try it out on an old figure just to see what it does. I'll definitely have to try the tudor satin 360 because the color wasn't what I was looking for but it came out fantastic! You certainly want to make sure you got rid of all the mold lines because those stick out but I was shocked at how quick and easy it was and what a good job it did of shading. You don't even really need to paint it on even if your looking for more control because I found that after you let it dry for a couple hours and it has settled pretty well you can then come behind and wipe off any raised areas you want to quite easily with a brush or just your finger.
Svejk1914
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Post by Svejk1914 »

Yeah, in spite of reading ahead of time that the Tudor was the one to get, I tried a couple other shades first as I hadn't tracked down the Tudor yet. Mahogany was dark, but very reddish, and the Antique Walnut was very brown. The walnut works well on figs with a lot of white, tribesmen types etc. Looks terrible on blue or gray though.

Those figs were simply primed black, drybrushed white and then block painted.
All the shading and "highlighting" is the result of the dip.

It works on 15mm pretty well, but really works on 28mm figs. I don't use it on my 10mm stuff, dulls them too much.
Which brings up one other pointer, use a lighter shade of paint than you normally would, as the dip will darken things up a bit.
One workaround for that is to "paint" the fig with Future or other clear acrylic finish before you "dip" them. It encourages the dip to run into the cracks and folds and stay off the raised areas.
I use this trick when painting brightly colored figs I want to stay bright, like my Alex Mac army.
gavin
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Post by gavin »

All very intersting. I have been tempted to try it.

Currently, I use Vallejo Smoke mixed with Vallejo thinners. the amount I thin it is depenant ont he effect I want. It works very well for me, and is a lot cleaner (being water soluble). I think I will stick with it for now.

Well, that and Windsor and Newton Calligraphy Inks.
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Strategos69
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Post by Strategos69 »

I have talked before and shown the results using this product: betún de Judea. I will soon post a tutorial about it. I like the smooth effect of lights and shadows that creates. It gives an impression of old fashioned stuff.

Image

I don't know its name in English (asphalt?), but I think that it can be a cheaper (3,50 € for all the armies you may collect in your entire life) and good substitute for much more expensive army painters. This one is applied with brush and removed with brush too. Here you have the link. I would appreciate if someone could tell me how it is called in English.

http://www.artevertice.com/FichaArticul ... ~1140.html


Some more results I get with this technique.
Image
lawrenceg
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Post by lawrenceg »

I have talked before and shown the results using this product: betún de Judea. I will soon post a tutorial about it. I like the smooth effect of lights and shadows that creates. It gives an impression of old fashioned stuff.

I don't know its name in English (asphalt?), but I think that it can be a cheaper (3,50 € for all the armies you may collect in your entire life) and good substitute for much more expensive army painters. This one is applied with brush and removed with brush too. Here you have the link. I would appreciate if someone could tell me how it is called in English.
In English that would be "Bitumen of Judea", which turned up quite a few hits when I put it in a search engine.
Lawrence Greaves
daleivan
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Post by daleivan »

Strategos69 wrote:I have talked before and shown the results using this product: betún de Judea. I will soon post a tutorial about it. I like the smooth effect of lights and shadows that creates. It gives an impression of old fashioned stuff.

Image

I don't know its name in English (asphalt?), but I think that it can be a cheaper (3,50 € for all the armies you may collect in your entire life) and good substitute for much more expensive army painters. This one is applied with brush and removed with brush too. Here you have the link. I would appreciate if someone could tell me how it is called in English.

http://www.artevertice.com/FichaArticul ... ~1140.html


Some more results I get with this technique.
Image
The figures look great--nice effect.
philqw78
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Post by philqw78 »

Bitumen. Tar. Though that would seem a bit thick, but then I've never seen it. Asphalt is quite close, but in common use asphalt contains small stones and is used to surface roads.
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Post by Redpossum »

philqw78 wrote:Bitumen. Tar. Though that would seem a bit thick, but then I've never seen it. Asphalt is quite close, but in common use asphalt contains small stones and is used to surface roads.
What they call macadam in the UK, I think.
philqw78
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Post by philqw78 »

What they call macadam in the UK
Tarmacadam, tar with small stones. But this has nothing to do with toy soldiers. Macadam was a Scottish engineer, built roads. Asphalt has bigger stones than Tarmac.
lawrenceg
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Post by lawrenceg »

philqw78 wrote:Bitumen. Tar. Though that would seem a bit thick, but then I've never seen it. Asphalt is quite close, but in common use asphalt contains small stones and is used to surface roads.
Bitumen of Judea is bitumen dissolved in a solvent, so it is quite runny. When the solvent evaporates, it is hard at room temperature. According to Wikipedia, bitumen and asphalt both mean the same thing, a black viscous liquid or low melting point solid component of crude oil. Tar is a similar material derived from coal, wood or other organic material.

Macadam (invented by Mr MacAdam) is (or was) a type of road construction using graded aggregate in layers of progressively smaller size, quite an innovation in the days when most roads were mud. Tarmac started off as Macadam stuck together with tar and now (in the UK) refers to the hard black top layer on roads (aggregate plus bitumen), known in the US as "Asphalt Concrete" or simply "asphalt" or in Australia as "bitumen".
Lawrence Greaves
MarkSieber
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Post by MarkSieber »

I just tried the Minwax Tudor Satin stain (the pigment is black, or nearly so) for the first time, on Old Glory 15mm Indian Elephants.

Preparation and colouring: Indian elephants often have parts of the face and lower ear with less pigmentation, looking pinkish. Note that I used brown ink on the elephants before coating. The other paints were solid, unshaded acrylics. Mostly Valejo and Games Workshop.

The one thing I would change in my undercoating would be to use a darker skin tone for the men. I used a lighter shade out of concern that it might come out too dark, but the pigment is very fine grained and settles in the smaller folds, leaving the original colour only slightly darkened. The overall effect is a bit darker, but the individual colours are still recognizable.

I was originally worried that a brown shade might make the figures look like they'd been mud wrestling, but I may yet try the darker brown walnut for figures showing more skin--like the riders here--though the black worked reasonably well. It was better on the elephants themselves. I think it would work well on metal armour.

Application of the stain: I needed to wipe off some excess around the elephants' feet, which was easy after a few minutes. I recommend blowing hard on the models just after application to remove any 'webbing' in crooked arms and so forth.

All in all I am well pleased.

A group of 15mm OG Nellies:
Image

Close up:
Image
flameberge
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Post by flameberge »

Those came out really well.
nikgaukroger
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Post by nikgaukroger »

nikgaukroger wrote:
Previously I've used Windsor & Newton ink (Peat Brown) but have splashed out on a tin of Strong Tone to give it a go as I suspect it'll be better than ink on 28mm figs.
Well I tried it (Quickshade that is) and am a bit underwhelmed by it :?

Compared to ink it doesn't seem to settle in the creases, etc. as well and, IMO, too much sits on the flatter areas of the figure which makes some colours (lighter ones) just look dirty.

However, I think it may, therefore, work quite well for horses but I may stick with ink for men.
Nik Gaukroger

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