First FoG army - too many minis, where do I start?
Moderators: hammy, philqw78, terrys, Slitherine Core, Field of Glory Design, Field of Glory Moderators
-
- Private First Class - Wehrmacht Inf
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2010 12:44 pm
First FoG army - too many minis, where do I start?
My FoG Viking starter army has just arrived and while I didn't count the minis yet, there are a TON of them. I'm feeling QUITE overwhelmed! I have painted quite a few minis for other game systems in past 10 years, but it's been a much smaller number of minis. How do I start? Do you guys paint up a couple of bases worth of guys at a time or something? I'm a bit lost, especially at working with this little 15mm stuff. I was thinking about gluing like, 3 guys or to popsicle sticks so I can paint them, man they're tiny. I wanted a winter project and wow, did I ever take care of that!
-
- Senior Corporal - Ju 87G
- Posts: 99
- Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 8:37 pm
I would aim to do I unit of a time. Probably 24 or 32 figures at a time. This lets you run a production line, going through with one colour then going back to the start of the line and begin with another (acryilic drying times are quick enough for this). It is worth thinking about how you will distinguish units at this stage; uniformed units are much quicker and easier but not appropriate for Vikings.
Start with Bindi/Hird or Skirmish units and get used to the peculiarities of the figures before you start on the prestige groups as you will want these to be more impressive. Switching figure types every few batches is useful to break the monotony and maintain balance so you can get a small army into the field as soon as possible. After that it is a case of adding a unit at a time.
Start with Bindi/Hird or Skirmish units and get used to the peculiarities of the figures before you start on the prestige groups as you will want these to be more impressive. Switching figure types every few batches is useful to break the monotony and maintain balance so you can get a small army into the field as soon as possible. After that it is a case of adding a unit at a time.
-
- Master Sergeant - U-boat
- Posts: 528
- Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 9:32 pm
- Location: Dixie
You will have to determine what works for you and what level of painting detail you are capable of or want to do. In the past I have cranked out up to 72 at a time. I hate that now, and usually only dab away at a half dozen or so - less than a full unit.
If you want to crank the army out, a dark primer, overall light drybrush and some tints works to just get them out there.
Not to be overlooked and what sounds like your natural style is sheer persistence. A bit of painting faithfully done over time, and suddenly you have your army.
With most of your army being four infantry to a stand, and the troops being pretty much the same guy over and over, you might try working with basic lots of 24, 16 or 8. Paint them all the same - brown pants, red tunics, the next lot gray pants, brown tunics, etc. Uniform painting is usually quicker, and when a number of lots are done, look at basing the units.
Modeling is a great part of wargaming, but building up an army from scratch is daunting and time consuming. A single dominant troop type makes for more tedium as well.
If you want to crank the army out, a dark primer, overall light drybrush and some tints works to just get them out there.
Not to be overlooked and what sounds like your natural style is sheer persistence. A bit of painting faithfully done over time, and suddenly you have your army.
With most of your army being four infantry to a stand, and the troops being pretty much the same guy over and over, you might try working with basic lots of 24, 16 or 8. Paint them all the same - brown pants, red tunics, the next lot gray pants, brown tunics, etc. Uniform painting is usually quicker, and when a number of lots are done, look at basing the units.
Modeling is a great part of wargaming, but building up an army from scratch is daunting and time consuming. A single dominant troop type makes for more tedium as well.
-
- Brigadier-General - Elite Grenadier
- Posts: 2048
- Joined: Sat Nov 28, 2009 7:29 pm
- Location: Manotick, Ontario, Canada
As Skullzgrinda said, you have to find what works for you, so don't be afraid to experiment.
For what it's worth, here's what I do:
1) Clean the figures and mount them on their bases. (I used to paint the figures before basing but after a long time I realized I was painting detail that ended up hidden.)
2) Prime the figures. (Use spray paint for a fast job or brush on gesso for a cheaper job.)
3) Put on a base coat of burnt umber (dark brown) or, black if the figures have a lot of armour or if you want a muted appearance. Leave this dark colour uncovered in the recesses to serve as shadow.
4) I try to paint up a entire battle group, but I'm finding 24-32 figures is tiresome. The optimal number for me is between 10 and 16 figures.
Basing the figures first has its pluses and minuses. On the plus side I don't waste time painting detail on areas later hidden after the figures are based and it's usually easier to handle. On the negative side, you still have to cover the whole figure with paint and that can mean getting the brush into some awkward spots. One alternative is to not base your "special" figures.
Lastly, with Vikings you'll want variety. I used to just to that on the whim of the moment, but sometimes ended up with something too garish (or at least garish enough to make Skullzgrinda wince). For the last few barbarian lots, I've planned out the variety of colours for the battle group (using pictures of figures I admire helps here). I try to replicate, in a battle group of 24-32, each colour combination a couple of times and I try to have a theme for the battle group, such as a lot of figures with a particular hue.
I hope that is of some use.
For what it's worth, here's what I do:
1) Clean the figures and mount them on their bases. (I used to paint the figures before basing but after a long time I realized I was painting detail that ended up hidden.)
2) Prime the figures. (Use spray paint for a fast job or brush on gesso for a cheaper job.)
3) Put on a base coat of burnt umber (dark brown) or, black if the figures have a lot of armour or if you want a muted appearance. Leave this dark colour uncovered in the recesses to serve as shadow.
4) I try to paint up a entire battle group, but I'm finding 24-32 figures is tiresome. The optimal number for me is between 10 and 16 figures.
Basing the figures first has its pluses and minuses. On the plus side I don't waste time painting detail on areas later hidden after the figures are based and it's usually easier to handle. On the negative side, you still have to cover the whole figure with paint and that can mean getting the brush into some awkward spots. One alternative is to not base your "special" figures.
Lastly, with Vikings you'll want variety. I used to just to that on the whim of the moment, but sometimes ended up with something too garish (or at least garish enough to make Skullzgrinda wince). For the last few barbarian lots, I've planned out the variety of colours for the battle group (using pictures of figures I admire helps here). I try to replicate, in a battle group of 24-32, each colour combination a couple of times and I try to have a theme for the battle group, such as a lot of figures with a particular hue.
I hope that is of some use.
-
- Private First Class - Wehrmacht Inf
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2010 12:44 pm
Painting Vikings
Vitriol - what kind of cork do you use as far as dimensions and such? Is it one piece of cork per dude, or is it a long, skinny piece of cork that you can glue several dudes onto?
Skullzgrinda - I am much too detail oriented to do the dark primer/drybrush technique, unfortunantely; I just would not be happy with my army. Perhaps 8 to 12 dudes at a time might be a good way to start.
Short painting sessions keeps my back much happier, as in an hour at a time. That being said, I did just finish painting my HoTT army which was 11 stands of dudes and it took several weeks. So, if I can keep going with that pace, maybe I'll get the army done before spring. Besides, there isn't much to do outdoors during the winter in North Dakota, haha!
So Vikings are not supposed to be color-matched like, say, a Roman army or anything, but would it still look good to have one color that shows up on most if not all of the guys, like a small amount of red perhaps? This guy has a red shirt, this guy has red pants, this guy has a red shield, etc?
Skullzgrinda - I am much too detail oriented to do the dark primer/drybrush technique, unfortunantely; I just would not be happy with my army. Perhaps 8 to 12 dudes at a time might be a good way to start.
Short painting sessions keeps my back much happier, as in an hour at a time. That being said, I did just finish painting my HoTT army which was 11 stands of dudes and it took several weeks. So, if I can keep going with that pace, maybe I'll get the army done before spring. Besides, there isn't much to do outdoors during the winter in North Dakota, haha!
So Vikings are not supposed to be color-matched like, say, a Roman army or anything, but would it still look good to have one color that shows up on most if not all of the guys, like a small amount of red perhaps? This guy has a red shirt, this guy has red pants, this guy has a red shield, etc?
-
- Lieutenant-General - Do 217E
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2006 5:15 am
- Location: London, UK
- Contact:
Vikings?
Base and prime them all in a darkish colour, then see how you go with doing one colour on a random selection, trying to do as many as possible in one go.
Id go black or dark brown undercoat, then drybrush all the armour, then start with the faces and move onto different bits of clothing.
Give them all an ink wash at the end
http://www.madaxeman.com/painting/hopli ... bers_1.php for some ideas
Base and prime them all in a darkish colour, then see how you go with doing one colour on a random selection, trying to do as many as possible in one go.
Id go black or dark brown undercoat, then drybrush all the armour, then start with the faces and move onto different bits of clothing.
Give them all an ink wash at the end
http://www.madaxeman.com/painting/hopli ... bers_1.php for some ideas
http://www.madaxeman.com
Holiday in Devon? Try https://www.thecaptainscottagebrixham.com
Holiday in Devon? Try https://www.thecaptainscottagebrixham.com
-
- Chief of Staff - Elite Maus
- Posts: 8835
- Joined: Tue Feb 06, 2007 11:31 am
- Location: Manchester
I base them all ready as the rules. Spray black. Paint. Complete 20-30 an evening. Use maybe 10 colours for the whole army. Quick highlight if I have time. Then varnish/dip/wash. Then static grass the bases.
If you have all winter you can get more detail.
Depends what you like. I like the game, hate the painting.
If you have all winter you can get more detail.
Depends what you like. I like the game, hate the painting.
phil
putting the arg into argumentative, except for the lists I check where there is no argument!
putting the arg into argumentative, except for the lists I check where there is no argument!
-
- Lieutenant Colonel - Elite Panther D
- Posts: 1375
- Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 10:53 pm
- Location: Alcalá de Henares, Spain
In my experience, it is a good idea to base first miniatures that do not have many models per base. That way, skirmisher, light cavalry, elephants and medium foot with 3 miniatures per base, I glue them and paint them directly on them. For the rest, I prefer using a small stick so that I can go from one to another. For painting fast without painting badly, it is possible to use the new colour cans that allow you to paint several miniatures at the same time. If, for example, your vikings are mainly dark redish, you look for that colour as primer. The Army paint has a big selection of them. In my case I use airbrush and it works for me pretty well. And if you want shades, you can use bitumen of Judea. I have a tutorial about that in my blog and I think you can get that translated to you by google.
http://misminis.blogspot.com/
http://misminis.blogspot.com/
-
- Administrative Corporal - SdKfz 232 8Rad
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2008 9:43 am
Vitriol
Production line and a mind capable of taking time out required here I'm afraid if you want them done quickish.
As other have said - dark undercoat, slap on the dark blues, browns, reds, greens, off white etc as you see fit, dry brush the metalics, dab on the flesh, then ink wash the whole lot with dark flesh or brown.
Tart up your commanders etc with highlights, silver, gold etc
Personally I tend to do all medievals in big batches.
Single figure on cork is laudable but isn't conducive to fast work.
Don't forget they will only be seen from @ 4 foot away!
Give yourself a break by having a cup of coffee and then basing up a unit or to to convince yourself that you ARE making progress.
My 15mm vikings took 2 weekends lead to on the table
I find that if you need them for a particular game then this target makes you work wonders.
Bert
Production line and a mind capable of taking time out required here I'm afraid if you want them done quickish.
As other have said - dark undercoat, slap on the dark blues, browns, reds, greens, off white etc as you see fit, dry brush the metalics, dab on the flesh, then ink wash the whole lot with dark flesh or brown.
Tart up your commanders etc with highlights, silver, gold etc
Personally I tend to do all medievals in big batches.
Single figure on cork is laudable but isn't conducive to fast work.
Don't forget they will only be seen from @ 4 foot away!
Give yourself a break by having a cup of coffee and then basing up a unit or to to convince yourself that you ARE making progress.
My 15mm vikings took 2 weekends lead to on the table
I find that if you need them for a particular game then this target makes you work wonders.
Bert
-
- Field of Glory Moderator
- Posts: 1506
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:51 am
Yes, but it has the great advantage you have to drink the wine first, and maintain a steady supply rate...bertalucci wrote: Single figure on cork is laudable but isn't conducive to fast work.

Tim's idea with the inks is also good, especially if your painting, like mine, is not top-quality. It's also good for massed troop types - a few basic colours then the ink. One thing though, if you need to dilute the inks (unlikely) don't dilute the inks with tap-water, only distilled water. Inks also dry rock-hard, almost as good as a varnish, but you might want to varnish to tone down the gloss effect they have when dry.
-
- Brigadier-General - Elite Grenadier
- Posts: 2048
- Joined: Sat Nov 28, 2009 7:29 pm
- Location: Manotick, Ontario, Canada
The supply rate might be steady, but I'm not so sure about the hand with the paint brush. However, I suppose by the end you don't really care if you've got the right paint on the right bits or even if they're Vikings or Romans.peterrjohnston wrote:Yes, but it has the great advantage you have to drink the wine first, and maintain a steady supply rate...bertalucci wrote: Single figure on cork is laudable but isn't conducive to fast work.

-
- Senior Corporal - Ju 87G
- Posts: 90
- Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2010 4:55 pm
- Location: Rome - Italy
- Contact:
shadowdragon wrote:The supply rate might be steady, but I'm not so sure about the hand with the paint brush. However, I suppose by the end you don't really care if you've got the right paint on the right bits or even if they're Vikings or Romans.peterrjohnston wrote:Yes, but it has the great advantage you have to drink the wine first, and maintain a steady supply rate...bertalucci wrote: Single figure on cork is laudable but isn't conducive to fast work.
Arghhhh, how many poetry lost in your words… wine, cheeses and minis, that’s my way.
And you don’t know how effective Chianti is when you use for dipping….
-
- Lieutenant-General - Do 217E
- Posts: 3068
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 9:48 am
For FoG I have found it very pleasant to do one BG at a time, makes you feel like you are making progress.
I also have found that when doing "random" color variations on things like Vikings that it helps to plan it out in advance. Something like:
- 12 shirts and 12 pants to paint.
- Find four colors I want to use
- Do 3 shirts and 3 pants in each color.
Otherwise I always find I have a few left at the end and have to go find another color or go back and repeat.
I also have found that when doing "random" color variations on things like Vikings that it helps to plan it out in advance. Something like:
- 12 shirts and 12 pants to paint.
- Find four colors I want to use
- Do 3 shirts and 3 pants in each color.
Otherwise I always find I have a few left at the end and have to go find another color or go back and repeat.
I like doing 1 unit at a time. Once it's done I base and flock it. Once it's done and posted to my blog I'm refreshed and excited for the next unit.
Start with smaller units until you get in the rhythm of painting the army. Start with maybe a light cavalry or light infantry unit.
Start with smaller units until you get in the rhythm of painting the army. Start with maybe a light cavalry or light infantry unit.
See what I'm painting and playing on my wargaming blog: http://ajs-wargaming.blogspot.com/
-
- Administrative Corporal - SdKfz 232 8Rad
- Posts: 159
- Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2009 11:01 pm
- Location: Wheaton - Suburb of Chicago
I agree with Ethan and his comments
I use small 1X4 boards with 24 to 32 holes drilled in each board. Each board is about 8 inches long and I glue each figure to a roofing nail with white glue. I like to keep each "unit" of figures between 8 figs and 32 figs - otherwise I go crazy. I have big fingers and need to be able to rotate each figure to get the detail that I want. Vikings can have lots of variety but all earth tones. A good fig cleaning and a good dark grey or black prime is what works for most dark age armies for me anyway. It you want brighter figs you can prime with a white primer and then do a ink wash of the prominate color of the figure - for my vikings I like brown. The ink gets in the details and helps with your shading. I like the GW prime and the army builder prime also. I took a class at my local games workshop store a few years back an that got me started. Some of the conventions offer painting classes as well - HMGS east here in the states has VERY good classes. I pickup tips where I can - KEEP a notebook and write down stuff and color schemes and ideas - it helps one remember stuff
I use small 1X4 boards with 24 to 32 holes drilled in each board. Each board is about 8 inches long and I glue each figure to a roofing nail with white glue. I like to keep each "unit" of figures between 8 figs and 32 figs - otherwise I go crazy. I have big fingers and need to be able to rotate each figure to get the detail that I want. Vikings can have lots of variety but all earth tones. A good fig cleaning and a good dark grey or black prime is what works for most dark age armies for me anyway. It you want brighter figs you can prime with a white primer and then do a ink wash of the prominate color of the figure - for my vikings I like brown. The ink gets in the details and helps with your shading. I like the GW prime and the army builder prime also. I took a class at my local games workshop store a few years back an that got me started. Some of the conventions offer painting classes as well - HMGS east here in the states has VERY good classes. I pickup tips where I can - KEEP a notebook and write down stuff and color schemes and ideas - it helps one remember stuff