Elephants were hunted in China at a very early stage, however they were not domesticated.

Some, much later, Southern armies did, very occasionally, use elephants. I believe these are already in a list or two.

A thinned acrylic undercoat is part of the problem.

My preference is spray on car primer (cellulose for metal, specialist acrylic for plastic) available from auto shops, Halfords etc...

You can also buy oil based primer paint in DIY or decorators shops if you prefer hand painting. If you do brush ...

For this period it's pretty clear that both English and Welsh forces could be entirely mounted. That said SOP was to dismount before battle. Such detail as we have of mounted combat doesn't mention missile weapons (bows, crossbows, javelins etc). If it happened it could and should be subsumed into ...

Presumably this was done to force dismounting (same as DBM made them 'inferior'). That said, such real evidence as there is shows 'English' men-at-arms to be just as good as 'French' men-at-arms when fighting mounted (eg they won in most of the mounted combats!), it also shows most 'French' men-at ...

ravenflight wrote:

Strategos69 wrote:It looks very nice. I miss one miniature as a sculpture. It could give it more "life"

You mean something like a 15mm figures painted white as a mable statue?

That would probably work well...

Full colour (bright colours at that). Greeks and Romans never left statues unpainted.

But the list writers do not agree. And they have studied this far more than me, most of the Wikipedia authors and probably you, unless you can quote some evidence.

The list writers do not agree that English knights were competent with the lance in the 15thC? I don't believe you. Quintains, hoops ...

Haven't tried it myself, but the following may work:
Lacquer Thinner
Methylene Chloride

Both are bad for you.
If one doesn't work the other should.

denatured alcohol, mineral spirits (paint thinner), acetone and Toluene all work.
nb acetone is VERY flammable and toluene VERY carcinogenic.

As ...

nikgaukroger wrote:

tadamson wrote:?
Kushan get pikes ???

A few left over Baktrian-Greeks like wot the DBM(M) list have IIRC.

I suppose some sort of 'classicising' 'city militia' style unit is possible..

?
Kushan get pikes ???

Very nice. I like painting shields - helps me relax for some strange reason - so unless there's historical evidence that shields weren't painted I'm inclined to paint them.

You will be relieved to know that there is clear evidence that Roman shields were painted, inside and out.

Exactly what and ...

I'll try to get the bowcases made separate, thus giving people the choice

Thanks
Simon

Huns are in a period moving from tubular to box quivers. All point up, all hung on the right hip from a belt.

I can't think of ANY source for a horse archer with a quiver on his back. Though dismounted ...

? Any chance of some fully armoured horses ?

try
http://www.buildmodelcastles.com/html/castles.html

Blarny is scaled for 15mm, big baggage, but hey it's free!

Legio Heroica have Mongol heavy cavalry with a mix of bows and shields.

http://www.legio-heroica.com/Mongoli-en.html

Beautiful minis. The horses are smallish steppe ponies, as they should be.

Pity about the chaps using lance and bow at the same time, you only see this at the very end of the ...

titanu wrote:Who does 15mm ancient Chinese other than Essex?

Any particular 'Chinese' ? region, country, time frame etc...

Looking through Ian Heath's AMAv2, he makes an interesting comment on the cavalry supplied by the Duc de Lorraine to the Swiss, in that they would be very similar to the cavalry figure illustrated from "Das Mittelalterliches Hausbuch" (no 118 if anyone has the book).

Would this be an accurate ...

I'm well aware that they didn't wear uniforms per se, perhaps to satisfy the more pedantic forum users I should have said clothing colours instead of uniform colours.

As with all Central Asian cultures, patterned, coloured robes (mostly silk) were important. Anyone fighting as a warrior would ...

frederic wrote:For mongols the nicest ranges are
http://www.legio-heroica.com/Mongoli.html
http://www.atoufigs.com/PBSCCatalog.asp?CatID=248805

Pity about all the shields, are they detachable?

The other reason for gaps is (I'm reliably told on the TMP discussion boards) that gesso shrinks as it dries. I've got a pot of black and of white which will last me for years probably, and I can't see myself going back to spray primer cans again either.

Gaps are more likely to be due to residue ...

It takes a little longer to dry out and you will probably find that you have missed a few spots so have to redo them, I think probably due to air bubbles in the original application.


Gaps may be due to traces of mould separation chemicals, hot water, fairly strong detergent and a good brush ...