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Whay are the Swedish gamers good painters ? :)
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:20 am
by Dalauppror
Last Saturday we had a painting night at Oskars place. You can find a full AAR at
www.fieldofglory.se

Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 2:03 pm
by marco
very nice
very good blog !
i put this in my favorite
marco
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 6:02 pm
by Redpossum
Takker!
I love the photo blog, very good idea.
1. OK, I am now totally sold on priming in black.
2. Is Lapin Kulta
svenska for Cult of the Rabbit?
3. Several very interesting looking beers there I've never seen before!

(beer is easily the worst part of living in America)
4. The guy in the black shirt has some serious ink.
5. How can you paint after drinking all that beer?
6. How do you guys feel about that business of the vikings being classified as Offensive Spear?
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 6:52 pm
by nikgaukroger
possum wrote:
5. How can you paint after drinking all that beer?
That's not a lot of beer! Light refreshment only

Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 7:18 pm
by timmy1
I have to be honest, if I am called upon to paint Ottoman's and related bandits for 8 hours, I can think of no better way of doing it than our Swedish friends have done.
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 7:22 pm
by ogglas
The guy in black shirt is me:) (Paintin yet another balkan army)
Nah.. we only had like four beers.. last time we had a bottle of wine each and after that Fredrik had started a Moldavian army from some of my leftover balkan miniatures and I had to repaint all my Tartars I painted that night:)
The Viking thing.. well I don“t know. Offensive spear "feels" right. The viking raiding forces could maby be classed as MF, impact mumbo jumbo but they were not big enough to justify for a FOG army.
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 8:18 pm
by fredrik
possum wrote:
2. Is Lapin Kulta svenska for Cult of the Rabbit?
Lapin Kulta means "The gold of Lappland". Finnish beer. Very nice.
Anyways, a very good painting session. Got my first Sarmatians painted and another unit of Italians. As for the moldavian project I must confess I was pretty happy with them, although freehanding the shields after a bottle of wine might have been a tad bit overoptimistic

:

Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:03 pm
by timmy1
Better than I can do even if I painted until Hammy buys a DBMM army list book. Have you considered doing it professionally?
Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 7:09 am
by Dalauppror
possum wrote:Takker!
1. OK, I am now totally sold on priming in black.
Thanks.
Priming in black is the secret to our style of speed painting, we leave a lot of black areas, looks like shadows on the minis.
But I'm torn...
Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 3:24 pm
by Redpossum
I'm torn between that ease-of-painting and authenticity on the one hand...
...and on the other hand the simple fact that I find all that darkness ugly, and I'm
really fond of bright colors

Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 3:47 pm
by hammy
timmy1 wrote:Better than I can do even if I painted until Hammy buys a DBMM army list book. Have you considered doing it professionally?
And you know as well as me that could give you a very long time to paint
I agree these are really nice figures, I wish I could paint ancients anything like that well.
My WWII stuff is acceptable but I just can't paint ancients
Fortunately I have a LOT of painted ancients, the problem is I really need to lay out all of them on a huge table with all the army list books to hand so I can work out what bits and pieces I need to round out BGs and where I need to reorganise or tidy bases. Every time I think about this I look at the 30 file boxes of figures and change my mind

Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:45 pm
by gibby
I'm doing that at the moment and its a slow process. I'm also re basing as I discover armies that are still based to Gush/6th edition. The litko bases from America can make any army look good in my opinion.
Jim
Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 5:13 pm
by Redpossum
I have dead
zero miniatures experience prior to FoG. Zip, nada, nought, none.
Most of the time that seems like a major handicap; when you guys talk about DBMM this and that, I'm like "graecum est, non posit legere".
But every now and then I see it more as a bonus. It does allow me to start
tabula rasa...
Thirty boxes? THIRTY???

Do you go all the way back to Chainmail, or was that unheard-of in England?
Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 6:57 pm
by nicofig
You are the Swedish dream team

Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 7:03 pm
by timmy1
Hammy, I suspect that, perhaps, like me you back to Chainmail and beyond.
As for 'Fortunately I have a LOT of painted ancients, the problem is I really need to lay out all of them on a huge table with all the army list books to hand so I can work out what bits and pieces I need to round out BGs and where I need to reorganise or tidy bases. Every time I think about this I look at the 30 file boxes of figures and change my mind.' what you need to do if invite a friend round who drives and is both disciplined and is possession of a crate of Belgian beer. That way you can drink the beer while your friend organises it all and takes notes.
Just an idea.
Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 8:26 pm
by hammy
timmy1 wrote:Hammy, I suspect that, perhaps, like me you back to Chainmail and beyond.
As for 'Fortunately I have a LOT of painted ancients, the problem is I really need to lay out all of them on a huge table with all the army list books to hand so I can work out what bits and pieces I need to round out BGs and where I need to reorganise or tidy bases. Every time I think about this I look at the 30 file boxes of figures and change my mind.' what you need to do if invite a friend round who drives and is both disciplined and is possession of a crate of Belgian beer. That way you can drink the beer while your friend organises it all and takes notes.
Just an idea.
I do in deed go back to chainmail and beyond.. FWIW my first ancients game was played 34 years ago where I commanded a wing of a Viking army under WRG 3rd edition ancients.
The 30 boxes are just the painted 15mm Ancients. If I include unpainted and/or other periods then there are at least another 10-20 or so. That and the 400+ boardgames
Your plan does seem to have its merits. It could even be organised to include a game or three.
Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:51 pm
by Hepius
It looks like you are painting them already mounted on bases. Doesn't that make it hard to reach some parts of the figures?
I also black prime. I then go over all the areas I want brighter with white, but I make sure to keep the folds black. It gives nice depth.
Hep
Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:17 pm
by Redpossum
Hepius wrote:It looks like you are painting them already mounted on bases. Doesn't that make it hard to reach some parts of the figures?
I also black prime. I then go over all the areas I want brighter with white, but I make sure to keep the folds black. It gives nice depth.
Hep
Oh hey, that's a neat idea! I assume you are using acrylics?
Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 11:46 pm
by Hepius
Yes, I use acrylics. I don't have time for oils.
In fact, I'm looking for advice on good quality wargaming paint. Any suggestions? I need something available in the U.S. After a break of a few years I really need to restock.
Hep
Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 4:22 am
by flameberge
Hepius wrote:Yes, I use acrylics. I don't have time for oils.
In fact, I'm looking for advice on good quality wargaming paint. Any suggestions? I need something available in the U.S. After a break of a few years I really need to restock.
Hep
You'll get a lot of different suggestions on paints but I love Vallejo Model colors (not Game Colors which I think are too thin and don't give near the coverage). Some say you waste too much because of the eyedropper style bottle but I haven't found that to be the case since the bottles seem to last me forever and I like that you can use the eyedropper to precision mix if you need to. Vallejo Model colors have fantastic coverage and a huge selection of colors. The only drawback is you have to shake them FOREVER! Then after you think you've shaken them enough you have to shake them some more. One thing that helps a lot is if you break open a couple shells of OO buck shot and use the BBs to put in the bottles.