Slitherine

My current favourites are those supplied by 50 Paces - grained plastic, with either metal or magnetic bottoms. They're pretty cheap too, and the last time I ordered stuff from them, they threw in a few extras and a sample of some of their other figures.

Thought I would second the 50paces. Great company to deal with. And for those who paste or plaster the bases the rough surface (it's like a washboard so glue and etc. sticks better) is great.

I really like these bases. You can't see the metal attaced to the base of the stand at all, and the magnet stands are virtually undetectable (visually).

Compared to the litko 3mm bases 50paces are probably 2.5mm. They are just slightly thinner, but not much. So it may only be 2.8mm, My micrometer is in storage whilst I am between moves.

I'm a fairly new with FoG, I come from the WAB camp. My armies are already based. Has anyone here tried making movement trays for conversion to the FoG format? Any recomendations on the pros and cons. I'd like to avoid any pitfalls before I start this massive project.

hello, just wanted to share my bizarre basing technique.
first off I am painting 1/72 plastics for FOG.
secondly I prefer thin bases to the thick variety.
1) after finishing my army painting and varnishing I go back to each figure and using sprue cutters(large toenail clippers for metal miniatures-dont let the wife catch you). I snip the figures' provided base completely off, leaving just the figures' feet and a couple of millimeters of plastic/lead underneath like platform shoes.
2) the base- initally I used thin litko bases but I am cheap and have found a better alternative....
go to your local DIY store (homedepot/lowes in the states). you will need a one time purchase of a large handled metal SNIP(not left or right handed but the universal one large red handles).
then just walk through th store and get all your bases for free!!!!!!
go to the kitchen remodeling section they have samples of Formica countertop. these samples are free so you can take them home like paint swatches. I base for 28mm so these samples yield one hvy inf stand and one medium/light
infantry stand/cav stand per sample. they also have larger samples for chariots/camps. Just look very indecisive(theyre used to seeing that!!!) and grab four of each sample- enuff for an entire 28mm army!
3) once you have all your free formica samples and your metal snip tool. I then use my leftover litko bases to trace a template on the wood side of the formica kitchen countertop sample. then just snip along the pen marks and you have a perfect sturdy thin base--with NO WARPING from the formica surface.
4) now to apply some terrain to your bases. I have done it all over the years but now this is my favorite.
what you will need- go back to the DIY STORE...
A tub of tile grout premixed with ADHESIVE mixed in. maybe 10$ will last a year
a butter knife to apply it(dont let the wife see you again)
and a texturing device...I use a small pinecone seedling from the yard very bumpy size of a small walnut
a large wide flat brush 1 inch wide at most
a suitable color ink I prefer FW acrylic inks(order dickblick.com) dark brown (yellow ocher for a desert terrain)
a craft color light beige/sand for drybrushing
an old crappy brush large for drybrushing tankbrush size if doing 28s smaller for 15s.
a pot of suitable flock and a small mixture of PVA/WATER and a crappy brush for applyng the pva mixture.
now you are ready....
1-spread the grout evenly on the formica side of the base-not too deep- enouff to be highr than the minis' new platform shoes
2- use your texture device to imprint on the base- I roll the little baby pinecone around in a random fashion
3- immediately brush on the dark ink color and cover the white of the grout.
4 immediately gently push the minis down into the inky adhesive grout and set aside in a safe place(away from cats!)
to dry. I let it dry overnite i think a few hours is fine.
5- now you have a textured dark base with minis glued securely in place by the adhesive tile grout(no flaking like spackle)
6- now I use a crappy medium brush to dry brush the beige/sand color over the base' texture. make sur all is dry before doing this step. also if you get some on the guys' feet no problem-weathering effects.mud
7- now after all is drybrushed I paint on some elmers glue-pva-water mixture 70/30 in random patterns on the base
and dip the base in my flock mixture tupperware(the one the wife is always looking for)
and thats it.
8- optional step - I usually superglue a 20 by 20 metal basestand(wargame accesories) centered on the bottom of my base-may need smaller size for 15mm basing
9- i cut several movement trays from thick magnetic sheeting (sign shops) using my trusty metal snips and my whole army is based and ready for play..I will try to post pics of finished product soon.
hope this is helpful sorry its so involved
steve

meledward23 wrote:Thought I would second the 50paces. Great company to deal with. And for those who paste or plaster the bases the rough surface (it's like a washboard so glue and etc. sticks better) is great.

I really like these bases. You can't see the metal attaced to the base of the stand at all, and the magnet stands are virtually undetectable (visually).

Compared to the litko 3mm bases 50paces are probably 2.5mm. They are just slightly thinner, but not much. So it may only be 2.8mm, My micrometer is in storage whilst I am between moves.

Let me be the third person to recomend 50 Paces. I just received my order last night and based up a bunch of troops. The stands are great and can be used as is in a pinch and won't look too bad, they are pretty rigid too at 2mm. I am planning on placing a larger order soon. I used to buy Litko only but am switching over to these 2mm magnetic bases from 50 Paces now.

Sherman wrote:I'm brand new to Historicals. What do you use to base these models? Like, what material? Are there any pre-fab bases out there that use the measurements for FoG? Both 15mm and 28mm scale would be nice to know about. I haven't yet decided which I prefer though I'm leaning towards 15mm...

Thanks!

Dunno where you are, but Olympian Games in Canberra Australia do pre-fab magnetic bases. They also send their stuff all over so you could do a mail order if you wanted to, but if you're outside of Australia there may be better options.

Ian

I use heavy card stock & then stick to the rear of cheap self adhesive vinyl floor tiles.

I am wanting to do tufts of grass on my 28mm bases. I got the standard grass you can get from hobby scenics but its a pain to glue together in clumps and model them on the bases. I have heard there are grasses you cen get pre clumped.

ie tufts of long straight grass all poking up. Not the scrabbly stuff like gale forece nine sell.

Anthony

http://shop.warlordgames.co.uk/battlefi ... g-19-c.asp

Is this what you're looking for?

Can I just check with you TT chaps, please? From earlier in the thread these basing conventions were given . . .

Knights and Cavalry are 3 figures to a base 30 by 40
Light horse 2 figures to a base 30 by 40
Heavy foot 4 figures to a base 15 by 40
Medium foot 3 or 4 figures to a base 20 by 40
Light foot 2 figures to a base 20 by 40

Just a couple of questions -
i) in terms of the medium foot, do people tend to put 3 figures on a base to distinguish them from heavy foot? Or does the difference in base size make the difference clear enough anyway in a game?
ii) how would you base late medieval artillery? 40x40 maybe?

I have loads of unbased, painted figures in my cupboard and I just need to sort them out really. Thanks.

All arty is 40x40

20mm base depth is enough to distinguish MF from HF. 4 to a base was a keeper from old rules so as not forcing people to re-base.

I always use 3 per base now for MF.

philqw78 wrote:All arty is 40x40

20mm base depth is enough to distinguish MF from HF. 4 to a base was a keeper from old rules so as not forcing people to re-base.

I always use 3 per base now for MF.

Thanks very much for that, Phil.