I have mounted my 15's on magnetic sign material. and transport them in metal tool boxes, or plastic containers with sheet metal glued in the bottom. I mount my 25-28mm on thin steel, and transport them in containers with magnetic sign material glued in the bottom. This scheme has worked well for bo...

Remember, these louts were mostly scum of the earth. Make 'em look dirty and irregular.

Have you considered keeping discrete bases and using a sabot? I base on magnetic sign material and have some very thin metal for larger bases that I use to double-up (or more) on bases.
Pete

Have you eliminated the offerings from Essex?
Pete

You can mix the Woodland Scenics "components", turf, rock, etc., and get a nice "one-step" formula to put over the glue. Works great!
Pete

I recently bought Old Glory 15's Swiss for that period. They are decent, not great, and feature dress more simple than Landsknecht. I have a number of Essex in 15mm and don't think they would work.
Pete

I apologize, but I've been thrashing around in the Control Panel and can't locate this field. Is this the right place?

Go get some twigs and carve 'em! Use a little blade and they will look like the were chopped with axes. You can always coat them with clear glue to add strength. Pete

These guys are required to use the Keil to aren't they? Is 12 pike (4x3) 2 heavy weapon and 6 LF a legal "recipe"?

I have some 28mm cavalry that are mounted 1 per on metal bases with epoxy. The adhesive is covered with a nice terrain mix. They're 25mm wide, and I don't think I can cut them down to 20mm. So has anyone ever dissolved epoxy without dissolving the figure? I've heard that heat softens epoxy, but that...

Hey Dru; I use the plastic-coated magnetic flexy stuff that is typically used for removable signs. Like the ones realty people stick on their car doors. It comes on rolls 3 feet wide and I buy a yard at a time and then cut it with a paper-cutter. Craft knife or shears work too. Then I store the fini...

PS Here is a tile section of my gaming board done as I suggested: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/839/picture463p.jpg/ I agree that this is a great method and very durable. I learned it from some model RR guys who had the most incredible layout at a show. I was mystified that something so real...

Hope I don't get virtually burned at the stake for this suggestion, but I think it would be helpful to visit a model railroad shop and check out their layout, and the "how-to" books for sale. Many of those RR guys are incredibly skillful, but it's not rocket science and you can make stuff ...

I just went through this process and Martin at Vexilia runs a very businesslike operation. I was even able to use a Mastercard and had my order in a week. The web store is great.
I intend to order more. Oh yes, the castings were perfect. Virtually no flash and no mold lines.
Pete

eldiablito wrote:Latin Greeks are in Swords and Scimitars.

On the army builder XSL file, they are called, the Laotin Greeks.

well, that explains it - I don't have that one!
Thanks for ending the goose chase.
Pete

I've been paging through "Arrows" and "Eternal Empire" and can't locate this one.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
Thanks!
Pete

I bought some "Pewter" mettalic craft paint and darkened it with black to get the right shade. I primer in black and use this thinned to wash with. I made about two ounces of it in a clean little jar.
Works great.
Pete

timmy1 wrote:The information you requested is on P165, Troop Types.

Yup - I looked right past it . . . !
Pete

Thanks guys!
This goes along with what I had understood was the actual tactical practice; to be at the rear of the formation and then exploit an opportunity to get on the flank of the opposition, or offset that move by the enemy.
Parked at the rear the will be.
Pete

I came across this troop type in the Border Reivers list but it's not included in the troop types. What are the details related to movement, combat, etc?
Thanks!
Pete